Orongo, Easter Island
Orongo is one of the two parks that only allow one entrance per park pass. It is located south of the airport that bisects the island and is focused on the volcano cone that formed that area. We drove around the western end of the airport and headed up the mountain, stopping at the first overlook we found.
Moving on we found the view of the crater called Rano Kau. The view was truly breathtaking.
Near the parking area was a rock with petroglyphs.
We recognized the Bird Man from things we’ve seen around the island but didn’t know the history yet. Fortunately, all would be explained when we visited the park.
There was a path leading to the water to the west and some tourists were headed that direction so we followed. We gave up after about ten minutes, not looking forward to the return trip uphill.
The park entrance reminded us of the need for four wheel drive.
Inside the museum we learned of the history of the area and it’s importance to the Rapa Nui culture. By the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries the society abandoned carving the megalithic religious statues (moai) and politics and religion turned to a fertility god called Make-Make. Orongo is where the bird-man ceremony took place, which is why so many petroglyphs are found in the area.
Sea birds called Sooty Terns breed in the inlet near here, returning yearly. The village built near the crater of Rano Kau was largely ceremonial and people only used the village during the breeding season.
Chiefs, priests, and others of rank resided here during the bird-man ceremony. They painted the walls and ceilings with images important to the religious ceremonies.
From the museum:
The competition was an annual ceremony where chiefs of different tribes or their hopu (representatives) competed to obtain the first egg of the manutara (Sooty Tern).
Participants wend down through the cliff and swam to Motu Nui staying there for days or weeks waiting for the arrival of the seabirds until one of the participants found an egg.
The participant returned to the village and was endowed as the tangata-manu or birdman or the chief he represented received this position.
The new tangata-manu was considered tapu, that is, sacred, and lived in ceremonial reclusion for one year. The last competition took place around 1867.
The walking tour led us along the coast, facing the homes, until we reached the volcanic crater of Rano Kau from a different vantage point, closer to the sea.
Be sure to spend a morning in Orongo when you visit Easter Island. The views are very unique and beautiful. Try to imagine waiting to find the first egg of the season.
~ Freddy
